posted on 2020-01-10
In Lyon, a new museum celebrates a longstanding culinary tradition
The Brunet family is long gone, but current owners Xavier Beyrieux and Benjamin Baldassini are passionate about Lyon’s culinary legacy.
“For us,” said Beyrieux, “acquiring a 1934 bistro only makes sense if we keep everything as close to the original as possible.”
They kept the name, the original checkered floor tiles, similar marble tables and wooden chairs. The old bar collapsed, but the new one is its honorable heir. The menu still features tripe, sauce gribiche and cow’s udder with garlic, but Curnonsky called the escargots “a splendor.” Indeed, snails bathed in bubbly caramelized parsley butter tasted splendid.